In day one Davinia Fermi taught us the flawless face, to enhance the natural skin. Now wouldn’t it be nice for me to share my notes with you from a celebrity makeup artist?! Oh yes it would so here we go, underneath is the step by step tutorial I had the pleasure of taking part in 🙂
1) The first step is to always cleanse the skin, you can use oil which is good to use on any type skin, this will remove any make up and dirt.
2) mist water over the face and wipe away with cotton wall we used Evian water spray, this will remove any of the oil and after run over the skin with toner also using cotton wool.
if there is a warm atmosphere don’t use moisturiser this will make the make up slip
3) apply Mac strobe cream all over face except on TV you need to use a matte primer to reduce shine.
4) apply foundation starting with the centre of the face where most of the coverage is needed and blend outwards. You can blend out the foundation with a moisturiser so you can still see the skin through. Make sure you cover underneath the nose and over the lips, this will block out colour to give you a blank canvas.
Test foundation on the chest/collar bone to match face to the body. You shouldn’t have to go down on the neck if the foundation is the correct colour and check all over the body to ensure that the hands match the colour of the face, and any other body parts on show, you don’t want a photograph with white hands and a tanned face.
As we have been given Mac Pro Longwear foundations in our kit, first we must understand the “Code” that MAC uses to categorise its colours. Each foundation has a set of letters (NC or NW) followed by a set of numbers, so for example my colour is NC20. Now to really understand the code….
NC – (Neutral Cool) These have a yellow undertone. This is the cool undertone according to MAC.
NW – (Neutral Warm) These have a pink undertone. Yes, this is the warm undertone.
The numbers that follow these letters simply tell you how dark the foundation is. For example, NC20 is lighter then NC45.
5) use oil free concealer, now this will make it sweat proof and waterproof you will need to warm it up on the back of your hand so it goes on very smooth. We used derma colour palette.
6) powder time! Dust over the face mainly around the nose and where you have applied concealer to set everything in place. On set take powder to blot any shines and oily areas.
7) a fan brush will gently apply a little blush over cheek bones but also apply a little down the centre of the nose to give a fresh, dewy look.
8) add some glow in you cheeks, temples and any high points of your face by using a touch of bronzer.
9) My favourite part, eyebrows! Brush them out with what looks like a mascara wand. Use an angle brush and use small strokes, start higher to lift the eye.
stay clear of orangey browns, use colours like khaki for blondes that way no ginger eyebrows
That’s skin done, but if we wanted to we could go on to add a little to the eyes and lips.
1) with your thumb, place it under the eyebrow and pull up so there is tension on the eyelid. Using brown kohl eyeliner, line the lash line to add depth and smudge up with a fluffy brush.
2) using a soft fluffy brush apply a bronze over the socket and take slightly over the socket to stop the eye sinking back.
3) smudge a little bronze under the eye.
4) highlight under the eyebrows, Cupid’s bow (centre of the top lip line) and the inner corner (tear duct area).
5) to define the eyes more use eyeliner on the tight line (upper waterline).
always ensure you have filled in the tight line, you don’t want any dodgey photos of the models head tilted back and seeing a fleshy colour coming through and ruining the beautiful eye makeup you have just done.
1) check the shape of the lips and use a lip liner to correct and define.
2) select a neutral lipstick, good if it’s nearly the same colour as the clients and use a lip brush to apply.
3) adding a little shadow over the lipstick sets it in place to help it last longer.
Thank you Davinia for our first lesson and cannot wait for the next, so for now I’m off to have a play with everything got in our kits today and wash all my makeup brushes ready for tomorrow.